There’s A New Sunscreen Ingredient In Town, But What Does It Mean For Your Skin?

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Until now, getting a new sunscreen filter — the ingredient responsible for protecting skin from damaging, cancer-causing UVA and UVB rays — has felt like the beauty industry’s longest-running will-they-won’t-they saga. This week, however, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved bemotrizinol, aka BEMT , making it the first new sunscreen filter to be signed off in the US in more than 20 years. But what exactly is it, and what does it mean for our skincare routines? First, the backstory. For years, it seemed as though countries outside the US were gatekeeping the most cosmetically elegant sunscreen formulas: the ones that don’t pill under makeup, never sting sensitive eyes, or leave a dubious white cast on deeper skin tones . The reality is more complicated. While sunscreen is considered a cosmetic product across much of Europe and Asia, in the US, it’s regulated as an over-the-counter drug — subject to the kind of rigorous (and subsequently slow) approval process compared to other beauty products. Dermatologists, skin cancer specialists, cosmetic chemists, and even Congress have long urged the FDA to review and approve newer UV filters already available elsewhere. This week, they succeeded, and according to the American Academy of Dermatology , US sunscreen manufacturers will be able to include BEMT as an active ingredient from August 9 2026. Ahead, dermatologists and a cosmetic chemist explain exactly what BEMT is, how it works, and what its approval means for your sunscreen. Consumers with medium to deeper skin tones will notice that they have more sunscreen options with elegant finishes and fewer visible white casts. Zobia Ahmed, a cosmetic chemist and product developer. What is bemotrizinol or BEMT, and how will it make sunscreen better? Zobia Ahmed , a cosmetic chemist and product developer, says that BEMT is a broad-spectrum, chemical UV filter: “It’s used in sunscreen to help protect the skin from UVA rays — associated with contributing to dark spots and premature aging — and UVB rays, which are commonly associated with sunburn,” she says. Both types of rays damage DNA, causing mutations that can lead to skin cancers such as melanoma . Joshua Zeichner , MD, a dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital , adds that BEMT offers “superior UV protection” to what is currently used in the US. Ahmed agrees and notes that many traditional US chemical sunscreens can feel “heavy, greasy, and shiny,” even leaving an uncomfortable film on the skin. That’s because the approved chemicals filters brands have been using are much oilier, she says. Happily, BEMT is oil-soluble, meaning it spreads easily on the skin, says Dr. Zeichner. “Innovations using BEMT will give consumers more appealing sunscreen options,” he adds: “Products that are lightweight, blend easily, and feel good on the skin — all important factors to ensure regular sunscreen use.” What skin types benefit most from sunscreens containing BEMT? Everyone can benefit from sunscreen formulated with BEMT, says Ahmed, but perhaps some more than others. “Consumers with medium to deeper skin tones will notice that they have more sunscreen options with elegant finishes and fewer visible white casts,” she adds. While chemical sunscreens are generally less likely to leave behind an ashy finish than mineral formulas, Ahmed says BEMT can also help create more elegant mineral-chemical hybrid sunscreens. Ahmed continues that people with oily skin will also appreciate the types of formulas BEMT can make possible. “We will see more lightweight, possibly even mattifying sunscreen options,” she says. Marisa Garshick , MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, adds that while these formulas may feel more lightweight, they still provide strong broad-spectrum protection. She also notes that because BEMT is generally well tolerated, it should benefit those with sensitive or reactive skin, reducing the potential for stinging, as well as people prone to eye irritation. Anyone who has picked up a European sunscreen while traveling, and noticed how different it felt from what we have here at home, will understand what this approval could mean for the everyday sunscreen experience in the US. Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology Which international sunscreens already include BEMT, and how will it change SPF options in the US? Dr. Garshick is ready for a change: “Anyone who has picked up a European sunscreen while traveling, and noticed how different it felt from what we have here at home, will understand what this approval could mean for the everyday sunscreen experience in the US,” she says. Outside the US, the filter is already used and well regarded by many brands, most notably Australia’s Ultra Violette — and given Australia’s strong sun protection culture , it’s fair to say they know a thing or two about sunscreen . Samantha Brett, founder of another beloved Aussie skincare brand, Naked Sundays , says the approval is a major win for SPF innovation and, most importantly, for everyone who wears sunscreen. “At Naked Sundays, we’ve had a head start because we’ve been formulating with [BEMT] for years in Australia, where it is an approved active ingredient,” she says. Brett believes that innovations like these will help make daily sun protection second nature, particularly as brands develop SPF products people actually want to wear every day. The Skin Cancer Foundation reports that nearly 90% of skin cancers are linked to sun exposure and can largely be avoided. With that in mind, Dr. Garshick notes that when the right filters improve how comfortable a sunscreen feels on skin, it can have a meaningful impact on skin cancer prevention. You might also see BEMT listed as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine — the scientific name for the filter. Alongside Ultra Violette, established European brands like Eucerin, Nuxe, Bioderma, and Caudalie — as well as British brands such as Medik8, Hello Sunday, and Ultrasun — already use the ingredient in their face and body sunscreens. “BEMT is used in many popular Korean sunscreens , too,” says Ahmed. “You can find it in Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua Fresh , Purito Daily Soft Touch Sunscreen , and House of Hur Weightless Sun Fluid .” Dr. Garshick says that approval doesn’t mean these exact formulations will immediately become available in the US, but she adds, “It opens the door for brands to develop products that more closely resemble the elegant sunscreen textures [we] have long sought from international markets.” This is a genuinely exciting shift for what the American sunscreen aisle could look like soon, she says. Will bemotrizinol (BEMT) make sunscreen more affordable, or just better? BEMT is considered a mid-to-premium cost UV filter, but Ahmed doesn’t expect it to dramatically change sunscreen pricing: “It’s simply another ingredient that formulators can use,” she says, “but brands still need to build complete formulas around it.” In other words, affordability depends on the brand using it. Hello Sunday, for example, sits in the more accessible price range, while luxury brands such as Dior and Augustinus Bader also use BEMT (listed as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine). The cost of sunscreen is influenced by more than the filter used, including formulation, packaging, and brand marketing — but the recent approval could make the ingredient more widely accessible very soon. In fact, Dr. Zeichner predicts which brands might first adopt it: “We’re likely to see leading sunscreen brands, including Neutrogena, working to bring new formulations with BEMT to consumers, with availability anticipated later this year,” he says. At Refinery29, we’ve always said that the best sunscreen is the one you actually want to use. With BEMT improving texture, reducing white casts, and being better tolerated across a range of skin types, we’re excited to try the new wave of products following this welcome announcement. As Dr. Garshick notes, “Sunscreen only works if people are willing to wear it every day.” Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here? SPF Is Pricey — Here's How To Maximize Every Drop The Very Best Sunscreens Worth Your Money In 2026 The Best SPF Makeup Primers To Try This Summer